Easiest Way To Strip Kitchen Cabinets – Like many of us, the shutdown made me want to do all the DIY work. The kitchen is a room in the house that I’m happy enough with, and we’ve done very little since we moved. However, I don’t like the bright white kitchen like the very bright IKEA we installed. We currently don’t have the budget for kitchen renovations, so I was looking for more creative ways to give my kitchen a decorative look. Decorating your kitchen is in the works at the time of writing, but read on to find out how your dependable hair dryer has enough to remove the hardwood floor from your kitchen cabinets.
The first thing before you remove the floor from the kitchen cabinets, you need to know what they are made of. The floor had already slid off some of my closet doors before I started, so I could tell it was an MDF door. My kitchen is a standard IKEA swamp shell with a panel frame and MDF door. Only the doors have wooden floors.
Easiest Way To Strip Kitchen Cabinets
Before dismantling, you should find out what your cabinets are made of to make sure they will be paintable (e.g. you may have chip doors that won’t fit).
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All you need is a hair dryer! I’m sure a heat gun will work too, but I don’t have a heat gun so the blower came to me. And let it be true, it’s not like I have to do my hair right now.
Put the hair dryer on the highest level and start from one corner, use it to melt the glue from the wooden floor and start peeling off the layer of wood.
I choose not to remove the decorations around my closet. It seems like disaster is waiting to happen as the screws look old! Since the floorboards were glued to the underside where the batten met the top of the cabinet, I used a Stanley knife to score points along the edges and then peeled the panels off. I then buffed the edges to hide the incision and blended well (see preparation section below).
While withdrawing is not difficult at all, now that I am working on my own, I have the following tips to help you achieve your best results.
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The glue gets hot and the heat from the dryer is also very strong, so be careful with your fingers. I used a small piece to remove the carpet from my door, but a similar tool would suffice. Don’t use your fingers!
If the floor does not slide easily, it is not ready. I knocked the wooden floor out of the first door with a little force, resulting in some MDF board being taken away. This is fixable and may be unavoidable to some extent, so don’t worry too much. But reduce the damage by only removing the floor if it can be easily removed. If you have to force it, it needs some heat, so blow your hair dryer until it turns off. Without resistance.
There’s really no need to remove the door to peel off the wooden floor. You may have tricky corners (for example, I need to remove the fake folder from under the sink), but for the most part you can do it. Personally, I find it easier because it’s less complicated, less cluttered, and faster.
I spent hours choosing the perfect color for our kitchen and painting it as a reward for the prep work. The door will require some preparation and possibly some repair work before proceeding.
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I have tried many options and my favorite is the MDF caulk tool and stain if needed. I used Zinsser 123 to stain the blocks (there was some felt-tip pen stain on the door which stopped those stains from seeping through the top layer). However, I don’t really like Zinsser 123 as a primer. It rusts and flakes easily and is not an effective primer for MDF. I would recommend MDF/sealing primer (or homemade PVA primer) instead.
It is best to impregnate/paint MDF before painting, because it is a material that absorbs and can absorb water and cause it to swell.
Despite all the care in the world, you probably still have a slightly rough patch, and in my case I was missing a few small pieces of broken MDF.
I got the smoothest possible surface (and it’s not perfect, I’ll be honest) by carefully sanding down the damaged parts, painting and tonering (I used Little Green Intelligent Satinwood). ). I leave it to dry for 24 hours, then smooth the filler over the damaged area and wipe it off with a damp cloth. After 24 hours, I sanded the filling until smooth.
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I applied a thin layer of filler to the damaged area and let it dry before sanding again. Filler surface before re-sanding)
For a perfect finish, it is worth repeating this step several times. To be honest, I didn’t bother with it as it’s a temporary solution for us and you have to check the door carefully to notice it. The photo below shows the proximity and a step back. I’m happy with it!
Polish all edges before painting to get an even finish. This finish makes all the difference and is especially useful for hiding carpets stuck in the seams.
I would suggest wearing semi-matte, satin or glossy for the kitchen. Egg shells have the lowest and highest gloss. Matte paint is definitely not suitable for the kitchen. Sooner or later it will be dirty and very difficult to clean. If you use matte paint (and I advise against it), a finishing wax (e.g. beeswax) will improve durability and make it easier to clean.
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I used four coats of Little Green Intelligent Satinwood. It is suitable for kitchen cabinets and is durable. The abundance of colors really sold the paints to me and it was a dream to work with them. I used four coats to get a consistent finish – the coverage was great so two would do the trick.
I found a small round brush to draw a circle around the cocktail plate and then a small bubble roller to paint the door. I like to use a foam roller to smooth the surface, but there is no right or wrong way to paint. Try the foam brush and roller, you’ll soon see your favourite.
I allow 24 hours to dry between each coat. This gives the paint enough time to dry properly for a long lasting finish.
Between successive layers I gently painted so that the next one had brackets. The key is a rough surface that the paint can adhere to. It also helps with immunity.
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For the cabinet frame (which in my case was made of shavings) I sanded it back down to remove glare and created directions for painting and painting the front. I don’t bait because I’m such a cruel person, but bait is generally recommended! Like all my unidentified IKEA break-ins, this is fine.
It will take about a month (yes, a month!) for the paint to fully heal. It may feel a bit sticky at this time. The treatment is a solid foundation, so be careful not to overheat your wardrobe during this time. Think like a soft crab!
Really good! I have no chips or scratches and the satin board is easy to clean. I cannot be happy with my new classic kitchen cabinets.
I’m mel My blog is about building a house from my Victorian deck. I like everything related to interior design. Here is my story of DIY, recycling and crafting to get to your dream home.
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Cabinets with tannin stains in the existing paint, but no evidence of paint damage, do not need to be removed. Tannin stains occur when the oil in the wood penetrates the paint and is visible. This is called tannin bleeding.
Bleeding usually occurs when the wood is not primed or the wrong primer is used. In this situation, it is not necessary to remove the paint from the cabinet as long as the old paint remains. It can simply be cleaned, painted with a good stain remover and painted.
Well sanded with sufficient grit sandpaper will remove the paint, but the process will take more time than using tools. Chemical stripping and hard sanding can also damage the paint form.
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