White Cabinets With Butcher Block – How do I protect my butcher block tables? Here I tell you how I use wooden tables ten times and show you how easy they are to maintain.
I want to share with you how I protect my butcher block tables because it’s the first thing people ask when they see them. Another question I ask is would I do them again, and my answer is a thousand times over – yes! I love my wood countertops. If I hadn’t done extensive research and discovered this method, I probably wouldn’t have done it. The last thing I want or need is something that requires high maintenance to maintain.
White Cabinets With Butcher Block
After much searching and asking about different countertops, we decided on American walnut countertops from Lumber Liquidators. I liked that it was a natural dark wood that didn’t need to be stained.
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I’ll start by saying, scratches happen when you have wooden tables. Although it has always been very superficial hits. These two scratches are not very superficial that you can see in the picture. Usually we wipe the surface with my all time favorite product and those little scratches disappear like magic. Since dear husband decided to shake things up a bit, we have to shake something up. So, it shows you how to not only maintain the top, but fix it.
With 150 grit sandpaper, sand the surface of the counter down. It didn’t take long – all he did was a slight scratch. Side note – we recently removed the chicken that our tiler was using. In the last two years the color of the chicken had become bad and we were not satisfied with that. We will (eg) eat everything again soon.
He just went ahead and scraped both sides of the table as removing the crack left a few small dents here and there around the outer edge. When preparing your wood for the hardening process, you don’t want to sand your sandpaper down to about 150 grit.
This is because the more you sand the wood, the more these small particles close the pores of the wood, giving it a “polished” finish. This can limit product penetration during the curing process. The more paths there are in the level, the more influence you will have. When the sanding was done, we were all ready for the next step.
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Let me tell you, this game is amazing! If you are thinking of wooden tables, this is your product. I decided to call the company today and ask a few questions to make sure I give you the most accurate information I can. What I love most about contacting them is that a real person always answers the phone.
Most likely the first friendly voice you hear is Tonya. He is very helpful and knowledgeable about the products, but when in doubt, he will quickly get you to someone who knows the answers to your questions. I can’t stress enough how great their customer service is and I have to say I put them to the test. I can’t tell you how many times I called this company and talked to the owner (poor guy) about the treatment process. They also have great online videos that explain the procedure in detail.
What I have is pure castor oil mixed with lemon juice – half and half. But due to the global shortage of pure citrus solvents (they use orange peel oil) and the price increase due to this shortage, this company has made changes. RMPC aims to be environmentally friendly, so they found another natural natural material to replace lemon solvent, and that is pine. You can still buy their pure lemon solution, but they told me that it could change every day. Availability may expire. This unfortunate situation is due to unfavorable weather and pests affecting citrus orchards. Update: This Lemur formula is back in stock.
You may wonder why these formulas are mixed in a 1:1 ratio. This is because pure castor oil is very fatty. It’s like thick honey. If you simply put oil on your wooden surface, it will have minimal absorption. (Think of how a drop of honey sits until you clean it.) Citrus or pine solvent is added as an organic diluent to dilute the tongue oil and penetrate the wood. After using half and half, the solution will eventually evaporate. The only role of the solvent in this process is dilution. After evaporation you are left with pure tongue oil.
Beautiful Kitchens With Butcher Block Countertops
You can learn more about how to get your first treatment here at The Real Milk Paint.
). We followed the recommended course of treatment exactly as they recommended. It’s a little long, but worth it if you stay. Promise!
You can use a sponge or cloth to apply the oil. We love using these sponge brushes from Amazon. Just a little on the table and rub around it with a sponge brush. Repeat this in different areas until the entire surface is covered. Remember, we show you how this process is done, the entire counter surface. Normally we just make a call here and there.
When covering a small area, RMPC recommends using a 2:1 ratio instead of half and half (1:1). This is because if the treatment process is done properly (as they recommend) the holes in the wood will heal. In order for the tongue oil to penetrate as much as possible, you want to thin it out, even more, to ensure that it has an open surface that allows for full absorption.
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We leave the castor oil overnight. I took this picture in the morning and you can see that there is still a lot of oil on the surface. With a soft cotton cloth I cleaned the residue. I was surprised at how much I was able to finish. The remaining residue tells us that the wood is fully saturated. Since the pores were “full” it couldn’t absorb all the oil we used. Your goal is to absorb the tang oil all the way into the wood and not on the surface. It is important to clean everything that is not inside.
Do you remember these two plans? Yes, they last longer, and that’s what I love about this countertop. With the help of half and half, they are very easy to maintain and touch. Since the highest sandpaper we used was 150 grit and the tung oil could seep into the open holes, we were left with rich dark tables, which is exactly what I had hoped for. If we used higher sand, we wouldn’t get the dark color we wanted. After treatment, the product has a food safe level which was very important to me.
I knew I didn’t want to use polyurethane. I read the frustrations of other bloggers who went this route and were unhappy. Waterlux was not an option because it didn’t have healthy food and made them shiny. (Glossy is definitely not what I want.) Many food-based oils can become rancid, resulting in an unpleasant, sticky smell.
By the way, I always cook here. I boil, fry, roast, etc. Any grease or water droplets will sit on the surface until it is removed. The next day I was cleaning the barbecue sauce that I neglected to use two nights ago. All I had to do was thicken my dish a bit and wash it to get everything clean. In two years I have never had food or grease spots.
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This is the most used part of the counter and as you can see it is flawless. We are cautious – but not psychologically cautious. We always use cutting boards and never put hot pots or pans on wooden tables. Hot items are placed on top of the stainless steel island. More on that later. 🙂
So, now you know how I protect my butcher block tables. If wood countertops are something you are thinking about, I hope this information helps you make a decision. I know they may not be for everyone. I also know that many of you like the look of them, but may be shy to get them. I am here to tell you that this product is a game changer and I have no regrets.
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