Butcher Block Counters With White Cabinets – Replace outdated laminate with a classic butcher block countertop. Unlike stone or hard surfaces, butcher blocks can be made in a basement or garage workshop, making them the perfect DIY project for a complete kitchen makeover on a budget. .
This cottage style features a cabinet with built-in shelves that store cookbooks and cookware. Butcher block countertops and bead board cabinets add an inviting look to this large open kitchen.
Butcher Block Counters With White Cabinets
Measure the countertop with a tape measure. Record the measurements and transfer them to the butcher block. Mark the cut lines with a pencil (Figure 1). As you cut each piece of butcher block, place the board on top of the horse or between two work surfaces. Clamp the straight edge along the cut line, taking into account the width of the circular saw blade and the saw fence (Figure 2). Straight edge brackets can be purchased or made from a piece of wood with straight edges and brackets. Cut along the lines with a circular saw (Photo 3). When cutting multiple pieces of the same size, label them to avoid confusion (Figure 4). Tip: For irregularly shaped counters, the current counter can be removed and used as a template.
Is There A Best Type Of Wood For Countertops?
The edges of the tabletop can be left straight or angled for a custom, sophisticated look and soft corners. To remove the leading edge, staple the board straight across the front of the table, leaving enough width to accommodate the router plate (Figure 1). Use a combination box to make sure the boards are clamped evenly. Never staple directly to the counter as you can split the wood. Always use a small piece of wood to protect the surface. Make steps with a router fitted with a large Roman drill bit to remove some of the wood. Replace the straight edge and tighten it back 1/4″ back. Do the second step with a router equipped with the same bit. After the second step, remove the straight edge and tighten it. In the last step, this bit pad will run along the bottom edge of the table , so straight edges are not required (Fig. 2).
When joining two table halves to make an L shape, simply cut the two halves to size. Snap them together when fitted, then clamp the two pieces to the work surface to hold them firmly in place (Figure 1). If there are gaps, you may need to cut one or both pieces with a circular saw and a straight edge to get a straight line and tight fit. Once pinned together, remove the decorative trim (optional) as shown above. This will involve working on one side at a time and moving staples and straight ends. Since most islands and/or peninsulas are larger than the standard counter depth, it is necessary to join the two widths. Trim the extra width and length from the pieces to be joined, leaving a few inches of extra width for trimming so that the sewn sides are perfectly straight. Join the counter pieces the way they will join to see if there is a gap; if there are gaps, use a straight edge and circular saw to make the sides perfectly straight. After cutting, glue the pieces back together. If it is even, take the smallest width of the vertical counter and clamp it in the pocket of the hole. Outline the bottom of the countertop to combine it with other parts (Figure 2). Place two screw holes every 8-10 inches. Turn the two table tops wrong side up and secure them securely with two pipe clamps. Insert a 2-1/2″ screw into the pocket opening (Fig. 3). Secure the exposed edge of the island/peninsula if desired.
If you buy a new sink, the model may be included. If not, the existing sink will need to be measured and moved to the desired location in the butcher block. Outline the pattern with a pencil. Make sure it’s flush with the counter and in the right place for the plumbing. Drill several holes in the marked area large enough to accommodate the jigsaw blade. For the lower sink, insert a jigsaw blade into the hole and cut about a 1/4″-1/2″ line into it. For a built-in sink with a lip that covers the cut, cut directly along the line and go to step 8.
Transfer the template to a sheet of 1/4″ MDF. Cut with a jig saw and sand the inside smooth edges (Fig. 1). Clamp the template to the counter, cut the veneer with the outlined lines. Use a router fitted with a flush shank side bearing liner. bit and leave the bit to drive the template. The template can be used for the entire sink opening or just a corner (Photo 2), while the straight board is used for straight lines (Photo 3). in small sections and reposition the brackets when After the top edge of the sink opening is correct – perfectly rectangular, turn the table wrong side up.
Butcher Block Countertop Review
With the table upside down, switch the cutter to the final side trimmer. Move the router around the sink opening to cut off the excess material (Photo 1). Turn the table over again so that the right side is facing up. If desired, use a small round tool to tape the edge of the sink opening (Photo 2).
Measure and mark the desired faucet location (Figure 1). Use an appropriately sized drill bit (Photo 2) and/or a Forstner drill bit (Photo 3) to drill the holes at the marked locations. Drop the faucet into the hole to ensure proper installation.
Press the wood filler into the several holes with your finger (Figure 1). Remove excess with a clean, slightly damp cloth (Figure 2). Leave to dry. Sand the surface of the table with an orbital sander starting at 150 grit and working up to 220 grit (Figure 3). The surface should be smooth to the touch after proper sanding. The sand is milled and the edges are opened by hand.
Remove dust with a soft cotton cloth, cloth or vacuum brush attachment. Using a clean cotton cloth, wipe the entire surface of the table with mineral spirits (Figure 1). This will remove any remaining dust and reveal any imperfections (unsanded excess filler, sanding marks, etc.) that will be visible in the final result. Correct the imperfections and dust again. Keep the work area as dust free as possible.
Butcher Block Countertop Tips To Know Before You Buy
Allow the powder to settle before applying the top coat. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for coating (Figure 2). Allow 7-10 days for layering and allow time to dry before fixing. Tip: There are many finishes available for butcher block countertops that can be applied depending on how the countertop will be used. If the table will be used as a surface for cutting and preparing food, use a food-safe oil such as linseed oil or mineral oil. If you want a longer-lasting, waterproof finish, use a product formulated to penetrate like an oil but protect like a polyurethane. Traditional polyurethanes are not recommended as they sit on the surface and will bubble or peel over time. For a more durable and waterproof finish, use marine coatings made for yachts and sailboats.
Remove the old countertop, sink, and faucet and slide the new countertop into place. Attach the countertop by screwing the hardware into the bottom of the cabinet with 1-1/4″ wood screws (Photo 1). Attach the sink and faucet following the manufacturer’s instructions (Photo 2). For L-shaped sections, position the two pieces with face down on a flat work surface or floor. Insert 2 1/4″ pocket screws into the pre-drilled pockets (Figure 3). Turn the piece over and slide it into place in the cabinet. You may need to use a wedge between the table and the cabinets to make the table surface level, especially for larger pieces. Gently tap the shims into place until the counter is level and remove the excess with a putty knife (Figure 4). Tip: If the wall is curved or not square, you may need to use plaster or trim to fill or cover the gaps. We recommend using silicone sealant between the countertop and the wall behind the sink to prevent leaks.
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