Benjamin Moore Oil Based Paint For Trim – Update: I shared my current thoughts on painting furniture with Benjamin Moore Advance. As a continuation of this post, please read this post. ****
Hello everyone! A few months ago I decided to try a new paint, Benjamin Moore’s Advance. For a while I’ve been using general paint finishes and top coats, but since early 2015 he started spraying furniture with an HVLP spray gun, I’ve had trouble getting a uniform finish when spraying top coats. turned out to be very difficult. My conclusion is that the air coming from the gun caused the top coat to spray on before the coat dried quickly. In general, the “wet edges” are not sufficient until the topcoat is smooth, even if streaks appear on long surfaces (such as the top and some side parts). I’ve tried spraying thicker and thinner top coats to combat this issue, but I haven’t found anything that will prevent it. Finally, smooth the finish with steel wool and apply a final coat of poly/top coat with a quality paint brush or foam brush. *As a side note, this issue becomes even more important when using high gloss finishes such as gloss or satin top coats. *
Benjamin Moore Oil Based Paint For Trim
This allowed me to discover something different. I’m looking for a variety of glossy paints that don’t require a top coat (and aren’t sticky). Enter Benjamin Moore Advance. BM Advance is a water-based alkyd paint with a water-based formula that works and looks like traditional oil-based paints and is easy to remove with just soap and water. I’ve read stories of people rolling, brushing, and spraying this paint with great results with a little texture (brush strokes, roller marks, etc.). I’ve used this paint three times now (I’m painting my third piece with it). Use only high gloss finishes. I would like to try a satin finish or a semi-gloss finish, but I need to prep the parts a bit more and get them ready to paint. You can see here a modern credenza with geometric drawers drawn in Advance.
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Here are my thoughts on this paint, what’s good about this paint, and what I don’t care about. Let me tell you, no paint is perfect. Different paints have different functions and performance. It all depends on the look you want and what you need to paint, such as durability on high-traffic roads or simply covering up an old finish.
First, I would like to start by talking about price. I believe this paint is the same price as other paints I use (general finishes, etc.). BM Advance water-based alkyd paint costs approximately $25 + tax per gallon and approximately $50 + tax per gallon. Obviously gallons are more expensive, so it makes sense to buy in bulk in the regular colors you use often (like white). If it’s a color I’m trying out for the first time or a light color I don’t use often, I buy 1 liter.
The important thing to keep in mind with this paint is the drying time and repainting time. It was long and people were angry. If you need to get the job done quickly, this may not be the paint to use for the job. Painting takes approx. It takes 4-6 hours to dry and 16 hours to repaint. Temperature and humidity can come into play during this time, which can increase drying and repainting times. To be on the safe side, I wait at least 24 hours between coats, sometimes 2-3 days if possible. I also use a dishwasher (don’t use a heater that blows air as it will collect air dust on the painted surface). After you finish spraying, turn it on for about 10 minutes. My spray box is heat resistant, so I move it to a different part of the spray box every 30 minutes or so. Be careful not to get the temperature too high or place it too close to your work.
The benefit of Advance’s longer open time is that it means it takes longer to paint and can be completed with fewer brush, roller or spray marks. Even after a few sprays of this paint, I still have issues with the texture of the orange peel. The downside to drying time is that it allows more time for dust, lint, and other debris to adhere to the finish. A clean, undisturbed location for several hours is ideal. In my case, a completely controlled environment for spraying is not possible, but I do my best to store the spray cans and place a wet or damp cloth to remove excess spray and air. Catch other particles. Leave the booth with minimal noise on the vinyl sheet and do not return to the booth until the paint is dry.
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Another thing I had a hard time with was applying the paint a little too thickly to the details and letting it drip after shaping. This is partly due to the long drying time, but these paints are now known to have excellent sink and drip resistance. It happened (before I used Advance I never had any drips when spraying paint) and it changed the way I paint doors and drawers in Craft. Be careful when painting your work with inlays and moldings. If this paint drips, allow the area to cure for a few days (if it is cured), then lightly sand the area using high-grit sandpaper (400 or higher) to smooth it out. Once finished, apply 000 synthetic steel wool. In my experience, it is almost impossible to repair a leak without removing all the paint from the area. I drooled when I drew this.
The surface must be matted between coats. Painted with high gloss gloss. If you don’t use sandpaper or synthetic steel wool to dull the surface between coats, the adhesion will be poor and the paint may resist the next layer you apply. Even when using other paints, we recommend smoothing the finish between coats to ensure a durable, even final finish. I don’t normally do this between coats, but Advance required it.
In fact, I’ve found that even high-grit sandpaper like 400-grit can leave scratches on the paint (you can see I’m using high-gloss). That’s why I only use #000 synthetic steel wool. The photo above shows the side of the piece smoothed using synthetic steel wool with a matte finish. In my experience with real steelwood, it can be difficult and painful to remove all particles from the piece. Also, if you miss a particle, it can rust and bleed through the newly painted finish. There is no hardware store within 30 miles of me that carries synthetic steel wool (that I could find), so I ordered it from Amazon. My favorite is the Norton #000 2-pack, but I also purchase and use the Tusk Fine Grain. Do not buy the 3M brand. I tried it but nothing happened. Don’t waste your money. Answer: The best thing about using synthetic steel wool to dull surfaces between coats is that very little, if any, paint is removed. Using sandpaper and a sanding block made a mess and scraped the paint off the corners of the doors and drawers, so I went back to priming. Synthetic steel wool is no good! Use sandpaper only if the paint drips. Fine particles are removed and smoothed with synthetic steel wool.
One thing I like is that Advance comes in multiple glosses/finishes. As I mentioned at the beginning of this article, I’ve only used the high-gloss finish so far, but the paint also comes in satin and semi-gloss. High Gloss Advance has excellent gloss as a non-oil based paint. When sprayed, it becomes very shiny. There is no need to use oil-based products, which are difficult to clean and produce a lot of fumes. A great alternative to petroleum-based products. It works like an oil-based paint, but it contains fewer VOCs.
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