Best Sherwin Williams Primer For Kitchen Cabinets – *This blog post is sponsored by Sherwin Williams, but reflects my personal opinion on all products and colors.*
If you’ve been following my kitchen remodel on Instagram, you know we’re well on our way to finishing it!
Best Sherwin Williams Primer For Kitchen Cabinets
So far, we’ve painted the counters to look like marble, installed a farmhouse sink, added a tile backsplash, and finished the first phase of cabinets!
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Painting my cabinets was one of the hardest tasks on the list, but to be honest, it took a lot of time and effort, but it wasn’t that hard!
I have a lot of cabinets in the kitchen, so I automatically divided the task into 4 parts, which made it easier for me.
And this time I’m using Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Floor Enamel to paint my cabinets. Let me tell you, this is the best cabinet paint I have ever used!
First, do your research based on the look you want, the materials you plan to use, and what your existing cabinets are made of.
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Measure your hardware gap. If you are currently gravitating, you want to measure from the center of one hole to the center of the next hole.
This determined what type of liner I should use, and the hardware measurements helped me determine if I should stay the same size or fill the hole and find a new one.
It’s as simple as it looks! Remove all hardware from your cabinet, remove the cabinet doors from their hinges, and remove the hinges from your cabinet.
Note which cabinet doors and drawers are where, and the same goes for the hinges! This will greatly facilitate reassembly. You will want to mark which hinges are on the top and which are on the bottom. This way you don’t have to do too many adjustments when reinstalling.
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I wrote down which doors belonged where on painter’s tape and put my labeled hinges in a plastic bag and indicated which cabinets they belonged to. After I painted or stained the doors, I taped them over the linoleum where it was drying. It helped me record everything!
If you plan to buy different sized hardware for the doors and cabinets, this is where you will fill your hardware holes with plastic lumber.
For my cabinet, I skipped this step. They had no top coat and were in excellent condition with no paint or stains so I left them as is.
I tested the door first with primer and paint and they will work! If you want to skip this step, I recommend trying the door first!
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You don’t need to remove the cover completely. In this step, you give the liner something to connect to.
If you have filled the holes for the hardware, be sure to sand them down until they are flush with the wood.
Once you’re done sanding the doors and cabinets, it’s time to prime them! The primer I use sticks to wood and other materials.
I used a roller and a foam brush to do this step, but you can use a spray gun if you prefer. Give everything you plan to paint one coat.
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For the cabinet frame, I applied the paint with a brush and roller. This color came on very smoothly even with my brush and roller. I needed a total of 2 coats for my boxes.
I brush the paint on and then release it with the roller to minimize brush strokes. I am very pleased with the results of Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Enamel.
The color (SW Pure White 7005) is my favorite white cabinet and it worked so well in our kitchen! Neutral is bright white.
In the most professional way, I leaned over the paint can to spray the doors and cabinets horizontally, which worked great for me. I start with ridges and then dry them on old wood to get them off the ground.
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It was winter so I let it dry in my basement to control the temperature and keep my garage free of junk.
After it was completely dry, I moved on to the facade. At this stage, I spray a thicker layer on the face and all the edges to get a nice smooth finish.
I recommend a total of 2 coats in the closet, but I stuck with the first coat and loved the coverage and finish so much that I stopped there for now.
I know I can always add a second layer if needed! Did I mention I’m impressed with the coverage of this color? They said I needed several coats and they were right.
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That’s probably because I’m changing the cabinets from cream to white! If your cabinets are a different color or dark wood, you may need more than one coat.
Let them dry (raise the edges again so they don’t touch the ground). And if you place them horizontally, the paint won’t drip or clump as it dries.
After applying 2 coats (or as many as needed) and getting the look you want, let them dry completely and move on to the next step.
Otherwise, I don’t top coat because the color I use is long lasting! Extremely durable, non-yellowing, stain resistant, perfect for frequently cleaned areas like kitchen cabinets!
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Now it’s time to add your gear! If you use the same equipment or even the same size equipment, it’s simple. Just bring them in!
If you want to change the size, grab one of the hardware templates to help you determine where to drill the holes.
Trust me, they make your life easier! All you have to do is take your drill and drill and drill a hole in your new hardware. Then collect!
As for the cabinet faces, you will need to reattach them to the frame before adding your hardware.
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Adjust the hinge if necessary. If you keep each door in order, it should be minimal.
Joint Statement: Hello! Please know that I sometimes use affiliate links on my blog and website and receive a small commission from purchases made through those links. Don’t worry – it won’t cost you extra! But it justifies the time I spend supporting my family and creating content for you! Thanks to Purdy and Sherwin Williams for sponsoring this project. Oh, and this article contains affiliate links, so if you make a purchase through one of the links below, I’ll earn a youth commission at no extra cost to you.
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Here you will need a screwdriver or a drill. First you need to remove the front panel of the cabinet door. Be careful here – tag each duck removed where it belongs and place it in a labeled ziplock bag. From where? Because you want all the doors and facades to be flat before you remove them. Write the name of the cabinet on the hinge opening (on the back of the door) and cover it with tape so it doesn’t get covered in paint (especially if you’re using spray paint). This is important if you have a size door where you want the doors to go in the same places, as the location of the holes may be different.
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Next, if your kitchen cabinets have gotten a lot of love, meaning you’ve seen a lot of delicious homemade food or greasy baby fingers, you’ll want to clean them with a degreaser. And don’t forget about the open face frame. Our kitchen cabinets were new and we had just changed the color so we skipped this step.
Cover counters (if you’re painting upper cabinets), hoods, and floors with construction paper and tape. If you’re only painting the front frame and door (like we are), you don’t need to prep the inside of the cabinet.
You will then lightly sand the cabinet and faceplate so that the primer adheres. I used an orbital sander, but you can use a sander, even better. You can use anything good in the 200 – 320 grit range. The good thing about using a sander is that the door frame (think the front of a shaker door with holes) can be cracked with an orbital sander.
: If you don’t want to sand your cabinets, use a polisher (also known as liquid sanding) that will remove the shine from your cabinets and let the primer dry.
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