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The intriguing nature of hidden rooms has captured my imagination for as long as I can remember. Growing up and watching someone on TV flip a book or open a bookshelf in some other secret way, my thoughts competed with the possibilities. As an adult, its mystique still fascinates me, but now that they’ve made several, their work is no longer a mystery to me. Whether you’re looking for a creative way to hide a shelter, safe room, or hide a utility room, bookcase doors make it easy.
How To Build Bookcase Door
The secret of bookcase window function lies in its hinges. For closed doors, normal door hinges mounted on the back of the case can be used, but are not recommended. The tendency to sag can be reduced to some extent when the wheel is on the impact side, but eventually this swings loose and twists. That is why so-called hinges are used for interior and exterior doors.
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1. Start by cutting the door frame. Honesty here is the key to hiding transparency. Cut to length.
Pivoting hinges allow loads to be transferred from critical to critical and distributed, reducing stress due to normal pressure settings. CS Hardware’s Invisi-Door Hinge Kit ($139) suited my needs best. The 500-pound capacity and load with no mixing required makes it a great solution for professionals and homeowners. The kit comes with easy-to-follow instructions for 36-inch doors, including dimensions and dimensions (can be adjusted for wide openings if using overhangs and screens).
2. The frame is connected to the headboard by joints. Cut the rabbit with the router’s cutters.
Openings used for doors must be closed and fitted with flat backs (3.5 inches) like through openings. It is very important to adjust the height and position of the letters to maintain their appearance.
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3. Assemble the frame and header with rivets, ready to fit into the opening.
You can also place the chain on the sill and head by measuring the top and bottom of the legs on the side of the comb, so it’s important to keep the legs straight but aligned. Once this is done measure the opening and subtract 1″ from the width and 11/8″ from the height. This is the size of the image.
4. A good square door frame is very important for the rest of the process to run smoothly. Here we are using the shims to figure out how the frame should be.
Start by cutting two 11/2″ wide beams. Lay the girders face to face, back to back, and back to back. Mark 21/4″ on the top and 31/2″ on the bottom.
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These symbols indicate the top and bottom rails. Next, make a mark at 311/2″ from the bottom edge of the beam. Place an x below this line to indicate where the rail will go when you assemble it. This rail is wider because it has a door to sit on. All the other 11 3/4″ overlay allowing for an 11/2″ screen equivalent to /2″.
Next, measure the distance between the top of the pencil and the mark you made on the 311/2″. Subtract 21/4″ from this number to allow for the top rail. The difference is what you use to define the layout of the different shelves. Once you’ve marked the location, mark the edges of the face with lines.
7. Face frames are made of 3-1/2″, 2-1/4″ and 1-1/2″ materials. I start by ripping the face frame to the width of the saw.
Run this marker along the two lines and mark the edge of each rail with an x as you go. To find the width of the rails, subtract 41/2″ from each mark from the glue and pocket screws as you work from the width of the frame to secure them in place. Once the face frame is assembled you are ready to build the case.
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8. Connect the pocket hole to connect the face image. Fast and durable for field use. I add a bit of glue to keep the mind steady.
The edges of the cabinet must not exceed 7 inches as the total depth including 3/4 inch at the front and 1/4 inch at the back must not exceed 8 inches. This ensures that the door has the correct spacing specified by the manufacturer to work with the recommended hardware installation. Cut bangs 13/8” shorter than face height. The top of the plate is 3/4″ below the top of the face.
Using a composite rectangle, draw a line on the back of the face 3/4″ from the top. Now draw a line 15/16″ from the bar to the outside of the back and 3/4″ from the outside of the front. It represents the overall width and the line in front is the mark of the backplate.
9. Solid shelves give rigidity to the case. I cut out the dado with a router and a simple dado jig.
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Lay the other side of the cabinet aside and make a 3/4″ mark on the frame. Make an x mark on the side of the cabinet 1/16″ to 1/8″ below the top of each shelf. On the edge of the board. This small exposure is It avoids visible seams and saves a bit of stuffing and taping seams. The top board shelf, which is the roof of the case, is flush with the sides. The bottom board sits 1/2″ below the top of the bottom rail. After you’ve made all these marks, place the two sides of the cabinet facing each other and pass the large square through to form a continuous line.
10. The dado jig only has two brackets sized to fit the bottom of my router that fit over the edge of a 7″ bookshelf.
The lyrics of the tea ceremony must be on this bookshelf. Mechanical joints require additional strength to prevent wobbling and buckling. I start by jigging the edge of the router with a 1/16 inch square to allow the tool to flow easily. Place a clamp on the outer edge of the jig and slide a pin between the jig for added stability. I drill 3/8″ deep holes in one go with my router.
11. The face shield is attached to the case with a pocket hole (pocket outside the case).
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Place the first Dado on the scrap so that there are reference marks on either side of the work. I find that the dust collection works better because it creates a kind of dam that prevents debris from flying across the room if you don’t work all the way with the jig outside the cut. After shoveling all the dado, drill a hole between them on the opposite side of both sides. This will keep the frame in better condition than using glue alone. You are now ready to cut the lathe.
To get the shelf width, subtract 25/8″ from the width of the frame. Subtract 17/8″ from the outside and 3/4″ from the thickness of the leftover side material after the dado. Make the shelves the same length and make sure they are not uneven. Next, apply glue to each dado, put the shelves in place, and place 13/8″ posts on the outside. I do this on the painted shelf as well since that part is hidden until the door is opened. Continue with these steps until the case is assembled.
12. Use screws about 12 inches apart to attach the face picture to the bookcase. This makes the song very loud.
First, fit the image of your face and make sure the top and sides of the case match the markings on the back of the frame. You’ll probably have to fit the case in some way to ensure square alignment. Once this is done, glue all the edges of the carcass connecting the faces to the hem. location
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