16×40 Lofted Cabin Floor Plans – Another 16×40 Deluxe Cabin was completed by Backyard & Beyond. We enjoyed this room because of some of the arrangements. First, we used a cement board finish on the outside of this room, giving it a stone look, which helped break up the look of this ceiling. We finished the front with white Dutch siding with green trim and shutters. It’s hard to see in the pictures, but the shingles on both ends of the room are Cedar Cove white vinyl shingles. We blew into the roof before covering it with metal roofing.
Our standard windows are 24′ x 36″, but for this room we upgraded to 36″ x 60″, which allows for more natural light and provides a spacious feel. The ceiling windows are 14″ x 21″ We built two 3 foot wide windows, these are for the ceiling in the bedroom and bathroom. Skylights are optional and can be placed anywhere you want. We built about three in a row. A window is also available, with side-by-side windows.
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The interior of this luxury suite is lined with beaten-up insulation. We also install bathroom faucets, kitchen sinks, toilets, tubs and washers and dryers. We have installed in many areas, indoor and outdoor lighting, ceiling fans, and ceiling lights. All these pipes and electrical installations were covered with plaster. We installed a sliding ladder to use for access to the roof. It comes out for use and can be fixed to the wall when not in use. The bedroom in this suite is 10′ x 15′ with a 7′ x 10′ bathroom.
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Check out the photos and stop by and order your private room. If you have any questions, give us a call or send us an email and we’ll be happy to help.
Everyone should be able to be able to be efficient; That is why we offer the option of renting our rooms, garages, warehouses, animal buildings and greenhouses. If you’ve just purchased your front cabin, you may be getting ready to finish the interior. With a little skill, the right tools and equipment, a pre-fab room can be easily converted.
. This guide is intended to guide you specifically in finishing the interior of a small portable ‘spill type’ room (pictured below) that has been installed with a pad or concrete pad. However, this information may also apply to other types of rooms. (Not what you’re looking for? Check out our room design ideas)
Compared to building with a brick and mortar foundation, a portable room is a cost-effective way to expand your living space. It is not considered a permanent structure because it can be moved to a new location if needed. This makes it ideal for a variety of situations including camping, hunting, rental properties, extra rooms in the backyard, and more.
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While some builders may offer to finish the interior for you, there’s a good chance you bought your cabin pre-built with a shell that still needs interior finishing. If you haven’t bought your cabinets yet, ask a builder to laminate your floors, as it’s impossible to do the latter without removing the wood flooring. Also, ask the builder about the quality of the windows and doors. Windows should be large enough for window air conditioning (unless you have other summer cooling plans).
Now we’ll walk you through the different phases of interior finishing and give you some tips along the way.
The first step is to install 2×4 dividers if you plan to divide the room into different rooms. Start by creating a floor plan for your room that is drawn to scale. This can be easily done using graph paper. Drawing a floor plan will help you visualize the layout of the room and make changes before you start.
You can also choose not to install indoor units if your room is very small (eg a 10×12 shed) or if you prefer an open floor plan. A loft can provide large bedrooms away from the main living area (which can eliminate the need for a separate bedroom).
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Depending on how your room is built, you may need to install a ceiling fan (if you don’t want to leave the ceiling open). You may be able to skip this step if your room was already built using joists, but if they are 48 inches apart, you will need to install 2×4 joists on the bottom before installing drywall or mirrors. . .
The next step is to run electrical wiring and install plumbing and drain lines if you plan on running water inside the shed. This can be a very technical process with many variables. If you are not comfortable with this step, contact a licensed plumber or electrician. However, if you have some experience, here are some things you want to do.
Pull up the interior floor plan of your room and copy it if you want. Next, mark all possible locations for light switches, outlets, light fixtures, and any electrical sources or other outlets. Also mark where you will mount the breaker panel. The breaker is the most important place to distribute the electrical circuits in your room.
Next, you need to go inside the room and visually check every place where you marked the space, light or other lighting equipment. Make sure there are no walls to prevent easy installation.
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Using a tape measure and a pencil or carpenter’s pencil, mark the wall on the wall where you want to connect it. Most outlets will be 16 to 18 inches from the center of the outlet to the ground. Make sure this will work with your other plans. For example, it may make sense to install one above your air conditioner if you plan to cool it in your room. Labeling the results will make installation easier later.
In this example, we will specify a standard 4 inch electrical box as shown in the image below. Mount this box on the wall wherever you mark. Use the tips on the opposite side of the nail (opposite the rod) to install at the correct depth.
Do the same for all the light switches in the room. The maximum distance for light switches is 48 inches from the center of the switch to the floor. To find this height, measure 46 inches from the floor and mark with your pencil. If you use a standard 4 inch electrical box, this will place the center exactly 48 inches from the floor.
The National Electricity Code stipulates that every room must have a switch to control all the lights in that room. This is not just code, but good practice, so make sure you have at least one light switch per room.
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If your room has a porch, be sure to install a porch light and a light switch inside that light. Having a porch will help make your room more inviting, not to mention easier to find in the dark!
The wire I will use for this project will be yellow 12 gauge wire which you can find at almost any hardware store. In each room, you can run a wire through the wall (#5 in the top right photo) by drilling a small hole in each bathroom at the same height, usually a foot or two above the outside height. The building code states that the hole drilled in the wall cannot be more than 1/3 the width of the rod. Use a 3/4 or 7/8-inch hole for the wire.
If using a circuit breaker in each room, run the power wire from the breaker panel to the top plate (#3 above). If you don’t have a second floor in your room, adding wire hangers is the quickest and easiest way. If you have a second floor, use the same metal studs to make holes in the floorboards to bring your wire into the room you’re connecting. Do not drill multiple holes in the same floor joint close together. Spread it so as not to undermine the integrity of the structure. Insert the wire into the wiring room and drill a hole in the top plate to run the wire down the wall to the first place.
Bring the wire to the box you attached to the pole and leave the extra wire there. 12 inches
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